XJ-S Front Hub Rebuild

The rebuilding of the front hubs includes replacement of the seal and inner and outer wheel bearings and bearing races. Also included in this project was the replacement of the front brake rotors.

Remove brake caliper (pictured below) by undoing safety wire and removing caliper bolts.

Do not hang the brake caliper by the brake hose.

I drilled a small hole in the fender support and using copper lashing wire, hung the brake caliper above the upper control arm.

Pictured below is the hub with rotor, seal, bearings and race removed. Clean and inspect hub thoroughly. Make sure the bearing race seating surfaces are not pitted. If pitted or uneven, repair or replace hub.

I did not have the proper size bearing driver for the inner bearing race. I fabricated a driver by grinding down the outer surface of the old race just enough to fit easily in the hub. (pictured below) Note that the bearing race is seated below the outer surface of the hub, (where the grease seal seats) therefore the driver must fit inside the hub's race opening to seat the race properly.

Bearing used are Federal Mogul A-12 and A-13. (Approx $40.00 US for both wheels).

Note: Both inner and outer bearings must be hand packed with grease before installation.

I was unable to find grease seals at the local parts houses, so I had to purchase grease seals at the Jaguar dealer. They are part number C45711 ($18.00 US)

Using the modified bearing race in combination with an old alternator pulley, the bearing race is seated with a hammer.

A 2 inch ID pipe handles the installation of the grease seal..

The new brembo rotor is attached to the completed hub.

There is vast confusion about adjusting the front wheel bearings primarily because the Jaguar ROM recommends a complicated procedure. The ROM states " Tighten nut to eliminate all end float and then back off to achieve end float of 0.002 to 0.005 inches." This required the hub to be moved in and out without twisting while measuring the end float with a dial indicator at the hub, (due to twisting, false readings can occur if taken at the rotor).

My procedure, is as follows:

1) Assemble hub to spindle and tighten the spindle nut incrementally while constantly turning the wheel.
2) This procedure seats the bearings and bearing races.
3) Continue incrementally tightening and rotating the wheel until approx. 25 ft lbs of torque is applied to the spindle nut.
4) At this point wheel should still be able to turn freely, albeit with some drag.
5) If, with 25 ft lbs torque at nut, wheel does not turn, or turns with difficulty, the bearings/races are suspect. Remove and examine. Replace if necessary.

6) With spindle nut at 25 ft lbs, and wheel turning with slight drag, but freely, back off one flat at the spindle nut.
7) Insert cotter pin washer and cotter pin. If cotter pin does not line up, back off just enough (do not tighten) to line up and insert cotter pin.

Attach dial indicator to new rotor. Rotate and check rotor runout. Brembo recommends brake disc rotor runout should not exceed 0.15 mm.

Grease cup is installed using a 2 inch ID pipe and hammer as an installer.

The hub cavity does not have to be filled with grease, however I believe it's a worthwhile step. Use a grease gun at the hub nipple. Be patient, the hub takes a significant amount of grease. Continue until the grease exits the bleed hole as pictured below.

Project complete. Re-check bearing adjustment after a couple hundred miles.


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